Quick Guide to Surviving in India

Visiting India

India is an assault on the mind and senses, and you'll either love it or hate it. Personally, I love it. Despite many visits and a long absence the place still haunts me, if I close my eyes I can see, hear and smell it.

My best advice is sit back and enjoy the ride. It is pointless getting upset or angry at anything you encounter, be it bureaucracy gone mad, or poverty, because you can't change it - it's a lot bigger than you!

A rare moment on the MG Road Bangalore, with little traffic and a lone pedestrian

MG Road Bangalore

Getting An Indian Visa

Getting an Indian visa provides a very good introduction to visiting India. It can be a traumatic experience if you don't get it right. If you are a business visitor I'd advise you to get an agency to do this for you. It is well worth the cost. In the name of research (or stupidity) I decided to renew my Indian visa myself at the Indian High Commission in London

I have two pieces of advice. Prepare in advance, and arrive early. Download the visa application form, and make sure you fill it in completely and take all the documentation it specifies. When I last renewed my multiple entry business visa this included the following:

A letter from your employer stating the purpose of your visit
A letter from a company you are visiting stating the purpose of your visit
Two passport photographs
£30 in cash (Six month multiple entry business visa)
£50 in cash (One year multiple entry business visa)
£90 in cash (Two year multiple entry business visa)

The above was checked on 14 August 2005, but please check before you go, the details are on the form so please ensure sure you read the entire form so that you don't miss anything and waste your time.

Before you start, check the weather and your travel arrangements to London. The visa office opens at 0830, and unless you arrive early the queue will be huge. Be sure to wear sensible clothes, it is no fun standing for an hour in rain without adequate protection! I arrived shortly after eight, thinking I'd be in plenty of time. The queue was already some two hundred metres long. So download and complete the form before you go to the high commission, otherwise you'll end up queuing to get a form and then again to get a visa. Once you get given a queue number it is just a matter of waiting. Your queue number will also indicate roughly what time your Visa will begin to be processed - not when you'll get your visa. Take a good book. I was there for one and a half hours. It took about an hour before my application was taken and then another half an hour for it to be processed.

Packing For India

Packing is a very personal thing, and seasoned travellers won't need any advice from me. But for anyone new to this, as a guide, I'll open my luggage for you to inspect.

Essentials

Here's what I take:

Personal On-Board Luggage

Anti-malaria tablets - Get these two weeks before you leave for India and make sure you follow the instructions, and keep taking them
Tea tree oil, it's a natuarl antiseptic and deters mozzies. (this is a personal preference)
Mozzie repellent
Sun block
Paracetamol or what-ever you prefer
Imodium (Never had to use it except in the UK)
Fluid balance sachets (again never had to use them. I understand Coca-Cola and such like are a good substitute. Be warned the local version is adapted to the Indian palate and is very sweet).
Cotton wool (for tea tree and mozzie repellent application)
Antibacterial Wet-Ones (Wipes). It's a good idea to keep a pack of these in your pocket too as washing facilities aren't always what they ought to be
General toiletries
One change of (presentable 'work') clothes, but no suit jacket - Just in case the hold luggage goes walkabout, or like mine has, gets left out in the rain
Lonely Planet Guide. Heavy but worth it for reading material, information and help
Sun Glasses
Camera etc.
I'll either wear or pack a lightweight waterproof or raincoat for use in the UK.

Not travelling Business or First Class? Always remember to dress comfortably but smartly. It increases your chances of being upgraded.

Hold Luggage

Again, this is very much down to personal preference. Personally, I pack as little as possible… In general I take loose fitting clothes. I prefer long sleeve loose shirts, and full-length trousers - less for the mozzies and sun to get at, I use the same shirts for work and casual and only pack three. Getting laundry done is cheap and quick, but I wouldn't commit any expensive clothing to it. In my experience things come back clean, but with a slight taint of chlorine - so if you've any clothes that don't like bleach, you'd better opt for dry cleaning.

'Phones & Electrical Goods

The Indian electrical supply can be very unpredictable. Generally standard European two prong plug sockets are available and UK equipment will plug in and go. I've not encountered any problems with either 'phone chargers or laptops (Note, laptops ought get customs clearance on arriving in India, if you don't you may have problems taking it out again - don't lose the paperwork! That said, recent reports are that this is not so much of a problem now, and you may not need to bother).

UK Mobile phones work well, including SMS - in fact I've found the coverage and service is better than in the UK - but beware the bill! Especially remember you'll be billed for the international part of any incoming calls. The cross charging from local providers may take several months to get through to your bill. If you're staying out in India for any length of time, or are visiting frequently, it'll be worth considering getting a SIM card for local calls. The call costs are cheaper and the connection better than landlines - which is why mobiles have become so popular in India.

Getting To and From India

The Flight Out

If you're a seasoned traveller there shouldn't be anything to catch you out, except the Indians you'll probably be travelling with. They do like to carry a lot of luggage, most of it tied up with string and very clearly labelled on the outside - there's a lesson and warning here. They do this because Indian baggage handlers don't handle the cargo with kid gloves!

Apart from having my luggage left out to soak in the monsoon, I've not had any problems with my luggage beyond general scuffing (there's asking for trouble). But I have taken to making my bags clearly identifiable - I've put reflective stripes on my bags so that I can spot them under a pile of others, in the dark if necessary.

As a general rule, and not just for India, I always take a change of clothes, my washing and medical supplies as carry-on luggage. Then no matter what happens to my bags - I've always got two changes of clothes to get by with.

Immigration is fairly daunting, can be very slow, but is straightforward, you may have to have your bags x-rayed before leaving the arrivals lounge. I've been warned about customs officers using an Exit stamp for stamping Entries, and having the wrong date set as well, so do check your paperwork is completed correctly - it could save you hassle later on.

Busy road junction in the Jupiter Colony, Hyderabad

Jupiter Colony, Hyderabad

Returning Home And Internal Flights

Following 09.11 the security red tape doesn't seem quite so extreme. However, I've been through 5 separate security checks before boarding a 'plane for an internal flight. The process may change but essentially, this is it:

Hold luggage is x-rayed and security sealed before you check in. Just take your bags to an x-ray machine and get it x-rayed and sealed. It is a good idea to make sure the seals remain intact.
At the check-in desk you'll be given security tags for any carry-on luggage. While you're queuing you can have a laugh at what your fellow (Indian) passengers will try and get away with as carry on luggage. Make sure you have a tag for each piece of hand baggage - or at some stage you'll regret it. As per all airlines nowa-days they won't let you carry batteries, knives etc. and be warned, you will be searched (several times).
On entering the departure area your hand luggage will be x-rayed, and you will be hand searched - all of this by armed officials. Make sure the tags on your hand baggage are stamped - if they are not you will be sent back from a later search to be processed again. I saw one chap with an open carrier bag, (so they could easily inspect what he was carrying) sent back from the embarkation ramp to get a tag and have it's tag stamped.
Finally before boarding, your bags (and possibly you) will be searched either on the embarkation ramp, or on the apron itself. As a westerner you may get waved through. Be warned, this process may be repeated at the plane door!

Getting Around In India

Picture showing a typical yellow and black liveried three wheeler

A Typical Auto

Driving and the roads in India merits a whole essay of its own. I've been told that in some places, the driving test comprises a group of would-be drivers in the car with the examiner, and if the nominated driver passes - they all pass. That says it all!

Autos (Three Wheelers)

Okay, almost everyone visiting India has a secret hankering to try an auto. Negotiate the price before you start, and add a modest tip to the amount when paying. Autos are not for the faint hearted or asthmatic, though being deaf and blind might well be an advantage. Unless you're feeling brave, try one when the traffic is moderately busy. If the traffic is too light they can travel at a terrifying speed, and if the traffic is too heavy you'll be deafened by the traffic noise and choke on the fumes.

Indian Taxis

Caught at the airport and no car to collect you? Take a state run taxi. These are fixed price - you pay up front. In theory that's all you have to pay, but as with everything else a tip will be expected. Expect to pay Rs200 - Rs500 depending on distance, plus a Rs10 - Rs20 tip.

Indian Busses & Coaches

OK I admit it, I've never tried a bus - they've always appeared hellishly overcrowded and the only air conditioning is provided by a lack of windows - hence the bars, presumably provided to stop people falling out and not just for free-loaders to hang on to. Coaches tend to be more civilised from what I've observed. However, my experience is limited to transfers between international and domestic airport terminals.

Travelling by Train in India

India has one of the largest rail networks in the world, and travelling anywhere will invariably require a long trip. My advice is to take a local guide to get you on the right train as the stations are pure bedlam. There is a complete absence of departure information - you have to be able to ask around - that's what everybody else will be doing. Conditions on trains can be basic unless you're travelling 1st AC, so only try rail travel if you are prepared to rough it. Also be prepared for a long walk at the station. The trains are huge, and a ten-minute walk to find the right carriage once you are on the platform isn't out of the question.

Drivers

If you are lucky enough to have one of these, check if you've got him for a few days. When this is the case, I give one tip at the end, local advice is around Rs50 a day (early 2004) - depending on how good they are, how late you've kept the driver out and how frightened you've been by their driving!

One word of advice. Only give one instruction at a time. In my experience the drivers have a limited command of English, and telling them you're going to 'A' and then on to do some shopping at 'B' will result in confusion and probably a trip to 'C'. Keep it simple.

In The Office

Dress Standard

Standard Indian work clothes for men consist of a long or short sleeved shirt, dark trousers and shoes (though trainers have been popular in some offices I've visited). No Indian office worker is fully equipped without a shirt pocket full of pens. Ties are rarely worn, only appearing on senior managers when expecting visitors. Personally I like to keep up appearances, and wear a suit and tie.

Standard Indian work clothes for women tends to be traditional, saris etc. Conservative standard office dress should do the trick for women visitors.

Office Politics

There's an old nautical saying, "A place for everything, and everything in its place." This could have been written especially for India. Many companies have very rigid structures, and you should be prepared for strictly adhered to demarcation between roles. This can be a distinct disadvantage, the employees tend to be specialists with very limited knowledge outside their areas. The rigid demarcation can be very frustrating and slow things down while the right person is found. All this adds to the bureaucracy.

Finally, everyone will want to ensure you are happy, so be prepared for the stock in trade: "The answer's yes. Now what's the question?" You may have to dig deep to find out what's really going on.

OUT AND ABOUT

SERVICE

Typical market on the approach to the Sri Chamundeswari Temple

Chamundi Hill Market place

Get used to the idea of being treated like a dignitary, but don't let it go to your head. In a country of over a billion people, they can afford to have someone available just to open doors for you or hand you a towel to dry your hands in the lavatory.

Food

I really enjoy genuine Indian food and this is a great advantage. I try to avoid meat (Chicken or mutton is all that will be available) and seafood, - Southern India is mainly vegetarian anyway. If you do have meat, be warned it will generally be served on the bone. I recently managed to get a chicken bone stabbed into the roof of my mouth by forgetting this. I prefer to eat what the locals have, and so far have not encountered too many 'difficulties'. The biggest problem is convincing your hosts that you can cope with the spicy food.

By the way, restaurants are frequently called Hotels - which explains the large number of impossibly small hotels that can be seen.

It is standard practise to eat with your fingers, using your right hand only. Do not handle food with your left hand. After a few meals this will become easier, just observe the locals for hints. As a visitor you may be offered a knife and fork, it is up to you, but I don't bother. Entertainment at some restaurants can be obtained from observing the aspiring classes failing to cope with a knife and fork.

Main courses generally comprise a selection of 'wet' and 'dry' dishes, which will be shared out among all present. Generally, one uses the bread (Nan, Roti or Chapati) to scoop and mop up the main course. Rice may be served later to mop up any remaining juices.

Recommended in Southern India: for breakfast: idlys (steamed rice) and Dosas (Rice pancakes). Lunch / Dinner, take local advice; eating a Thali (a sort of miniature spicy smorgasbord) off a banana leaf on a Formica table with no utensils is an experience, but not for the faint hearted. If you're not sure, stick to the regular restaurants. You can still have a Thali, and possibly on a banana leaf, but served on a silver plate instead.

I can't recommend enough, Gobi Tandoor: roasted, marinated cauliflower. In Andhra Pradesh try buttered chicken, and another must have: Apollo fish - I'm not generally keen on fish or sea food, but this is really worth trying, it has a light texture, and subtle flavour - nothing like fish in fact.

Deserts. I recommend caution - as the Indians have an incredibly sweet tooth. I've eaten what can only be described as a bowl of sweet apricot jam. Ugh! I recommend small suet puddings like dumplings in a sweet sauce. Unfortunately I have to suggest that you avoid the ice cream (see below).

If you consider going Chinese to get away from the spicy food - be careful. In my experience it's just as spicy as the local dishes. I'm told there're pizzas and some burgers to be had - but I've never tried them, so I can't tell you what to expect. Hotels should offer European food - I've not tried it.

Drinks

Get used to being 'shown' a bottle of beer before it is poured, and beware of spirits, as they can be very expensive, and I mean very expensive.

Never drink the water, except from a (previously unopened) bottle. The general water supply appears to be stored in huge tanks on the roof - exposed to the heat and possibly a breeding ground for all sorts of nasties. Always ask for mineral water. Most places will show you the bottle before it is opened - this is so you can check the seal.

A litre of bottled water costs Rs11 (Early 2004) in the supermarkets if you fancy a bit of local shopping. Hotels (in the western sense) generally provide a couple of litres of bottled water per day gratis.

Don't take any ice (unless you are sure it has been made from bottled water) - so watch those drinks, washed salads, and ice cream (shame). It will also pay to keep your mouth closed in the shower, and clean your teeth with bottled water. It is not that the water will kill you - it's just that your body isn't used to the local fauna and could object strongly.

I'd also suggest that you be wary of any recently washed glasses that haven't been thoroughly dried. I've been caught out by one of these, or by rather stupidly drinking straight from a cola can without thinking about how the can may have been handled and stored. The result was the same anyway! But the genuine western flavour Coca-Cola was almost worth it.

TIPPING

Tipping is expected for just about everything. My advice is that over-tipping raises a level of expectation which the people following in your footsteps will be expected to match and encourages exploitation of other visitors.

In restaurants I tip 10%. Bag carrying and other minor activities, Rs10-Rs50. I have been known to take my bags away from people wanting Rs50 to carry my bags less than 50m if I've felt they are just trying to take advantage - though everything is done with a smile!

If you haven't got any trusted local help, take some on, but clearly agree the price up front, check it covers everything, and still be prepared to haggle.

Shopping

The last couple of years has seen an explosion in western style shops, including supermarkets and malls. So shopping need not be a great adventure. However, if you want ethnic items and clothing from the less 'formal' shops, you'll get a much better deal if you take some local help.

A typical Food World Supermarket, Hyderabad, India

Food World Supermarket

Some shops and supermarkets expect you to 'check in' your bags at the door with a security guard. I've always ignored this, pretended not to know, and they've been too deferential to stop me. Note. This is posted as a free service - but in India there's no such thing, unless you tip you won't get your stuff back, or you'll get a very tardy response!

Street Sellers & Such

Everyone and anyone in India is trying to sell something - remember this, and gosh they are persistent. They will not take no for an answer. You've got to steel yourself and be just as determined - just wave a hand and say "No" - and keep on saying "No". This works just as well when you want what they are offering - I've seen a jewellery box go from Rs500 to Rs50 in less than 30 metres, though this is not a ploy I've personally used. I normally ask the price, and then offer what I feel is reasonable.

Gifts

Unless you've got some trusted local advice - and I mean trusted, not an auto or taxi driver who will be on a percentage - buy gifts from the state gift shops. Some of these and other establishments work in a typically Indian bureaucratic way. Find what you want and take it to the assistant. He/she will take it from you and give you a bit of paper. Take your bit of paper and pay for your pur-chases - a good thing about state shops is the prices are fixed - no haggling. Once you've paid for them, go to another counter and collect your goodies.

Tourist Sites

Be prepared to have to pay a different rate for things just because you're a westerner - several tourist sites I've visited have different rates for locals - these are clearly signed, otherwise you're being duped. They can also catch affluent visitors with surcharges for still and video cameras, watch out for signs.

If you travel alone, and in the more remote spots, be prepared to be treated as a curiosity. There'll be almost constant questions about where you are from, and what you think about India. Visiting a tourist site with a western colleague it took us a long time to realise that it was his blond hair that was attracting everyone's attention.

Picture showing a pool within the Nandi temple

Nandi temple

I've not had any problems visiting temples etc., but I suggest you take local advice, even if you get it at the door. If you enter a temple, you'll have to go bare foot, likewise if visiting someone's home. With high temperatures, walking outside between temple buildings can be painful, so stick with the socks if it's very hot. Shoes are normally left at the temple entrance. At busier temples there will probably be a stall, where for a few rupees, even when it is marked as a free service, you can leave your footwear. In quieter places, you may find someone sitting at the door to keep an eye on your shoes for you, again for a few rupees.

Image of a traditionally dressed Priest alongside a Nandi shrine

Priest with Nandi shrine

Negotiate for a guide before you start a tour - don't worry about finding one - they'll find you. Preferably get one that speaks English! They'll make sure you get to see everything, but beware of up-selling. Cost can vary between Rs20-Rs200 (and upwards, check before you go) depending on the popularity of the site, length of queues etc. Ensure you have enough change / small notes to make a donation to the priests minding the statues of the Gods. Temples are generally crowded and noisy at weekends, and not places for quiet reflection (For peace and quiet visit an out of the way temple, such as the temple in Nandi Village about 50Km north east of Bangalore). Temple approaches tend to be surrounded by street sellers, and these will provide ready-made offerings - though cash offerings as already mentioned are just as welcome and effective.

Beggars

Actually I've not encountered too many. There are many pitiful sights, and what you do is up to your own conscience. Personally, after taking local advice, I do my best to ignore them, on the basis that it encourages them, and some are simply working scams. Children are the worst and most persistent, don't be surprised to gain several 'nephews' and they will try all sorts of ploys to extract cash from you. It may help to remind yourself that many of them are working and what you give to them will go to their 'employer'. I do, however, donate generously to the charity boxes at the airport on leaving. How effective that is, I can't say.

And Finally…

Gary Allman with a relatively quiet MG Road Bangalore, India in the background

Gary Allman

India really is a fantastic place, and despite the bureaucracy and poverty, full to the brim with friendly happy people. Soak up the atmosphere and hopefully you'll become one of those who loves it. Then, like me, you'll be counting the days to your next visit.

Thanks…

To all the people who have helped me during my trips to India, and to Ian Conway for his comments and suggestions on these notes. Frank Donegan deserves a special mention, if only in recompense for the problems he encountered obtaining a visa, and whose story prompted me to add some notes on this essential precursor to visiting India.

Article by: Gary Allman.

Accounts of some of Gary's visits to India can be found on his personal web site. Visit: March 2001; visit: June 2001; visit: July / August 2001.

Recommended Guide Book

This Lonely planet guide to India is highly recommended. A copy has accompanied me on all my trips and has proved invaluable on too many occasions to mention.